Tenzing Asian Holidays

When Tenzing Norgay stood on the summit of Everest on May 29th, 1953 it was the realisation of a long-held dream. Seven attempts since 1935 and finally the mountain permitted him to succeed. His thoughts at that moment on that day were of “his” mountain, Chomolungma and his family at home in Darjeeling and in the villages far below in Solu Khumbu. Yet, in his heart too, was the painful knowledge that while his dream had been at last fulfilled he had not been able to share it with his dear friend and favourite climbing companion Raymond Lambert. How hard they had fought in the spring and autumn of 1952 and how bitter their disappointment when they were forced back by the wind and cold just 250 feet from the summit. Lambert was with him in spirit when Chomolungma finally granted him success in 1953 – the red scarf tied around his neck providing a tangible sign of that love and support. Yet it was not the same as if the two of them had stood together on the highest point on earth – the Sherpa and the Genevois.

Yet neither Tenzing nor Raymond Lambert dwelt on the negatives – both were devoted mountaineers and this, in many ways the greatest of all summit achievements, was a moment for celebrations and congratulations – not regrets and self-recrimination. Lambert warmly welcomed Tenzing at Zurich airport when the British plane stopped there en route to Britain in June 1953 and their friendship was to endure throughout their lives. However neither Tenzing nor Lambert would ever attempt Everest again – for them the Everest story was over. They accepted the loss of a shared chance to make history together and rather enjoyed the success and acclaim the summit brought Tenzing.

Yet, for two people, the Tenzing and Lambert summit bid was not over and as the 50th anniversary of those two heroic attempts of 1952 drew near it became clear that there was a real chance for this story to turn full circle. Perhaps Tenzing and Lambert would at last stand together on the summit of Everest. It could be done.



Tashi Tenzing, grandson of Tenzing Norgay, had successfully completed his summit bid in 1997 and had in fact made plans to attempt Manaslu with an Australian team which included renowned Aussie mountaineers Greg Mortimer and Geoff Robb. He was excited about a new mountain and climbing in the company of such fine Himalayan veterans. Plans were in progress until an email came through from Switzerland late in 2001 asking him to join a team attempting Everest in 2002 in commemoration of the 1952 attempts and near summit success.. Tashi had had several offers to join Everest teams but Manaslu held far more appeal. Yet this Swiss request presented an opportunity Tashi simply could not refuse for it was from Yves Lambert, son of Raymond. Old Lambert had passed away in 1998 but his dream to climb Everest with Tenzing did not die with him. It had been kept alive in the heart of his son and now was the time to see it fulfilled. Tashi could not refuse this chance and, despite the lure of the great peak of Manaslu, quickly agreed to join the Swiss team.

As in 1952, the climbing credentials of the Swiss team were exceptional. The team was led by Stephane Shaffter who had already climbed both Everest and K2 ; Yves Lambert, a newcomer to the Himalaya but respected mountaineer in Europe ; Jean Troillet who had already climbed 8 of the world’s 14 eight thousand metre peaks – all without oxygen : Philippe Arvis, the team doctor, who had climbed Cho Oyu and attempted K2 and Guillaume Valot, expedition photographer and renowned icefall specialist. The Sherpa contingent was to be wonderfully represented by Tashi Tenzing and by local legend Appa Sherpa – who had climbed Chomolungma 11 times. This would be his 12th and last ascent.

And it seems this 50th Swiss anniversary would further bring the old families of Everest together again for Peter Hillary, son of Edmund Hillary, would also be on the mountain making a bid for his second summit success. The question was whether Chomolungma would allow the wheel of history and fate to safely turn full circle and see Tenzing and Lambert reach the top – perhaps even with Hillary ! Only time and the mountain would decide this.

The Swiss team received wonderful support for their expedition from a software company, RSD, and from Rolex, Geneva who had a long history with Everest and with the Tenzing and Lambert families and in March 2002 they assembled in Kathmandu to begin their quest for Everest. There was one team member who provided a direct link to the team of 1952 and who was able to accompany the climbers as far as Shyangboche. Jean-Jaques Asper had been the youngest member of the Swiss team of spring 1952 and had earned himself a place in Everest legend by finding a way across the great crevasse which had thwarted Eric Shipton’s reconnaissance team in 1951 as they tried to find a way from the Khumbu Icefall into the vast Western Cwm. It was only Asper’s courage and pure athleticism which saved the day and enabled a rope link to be established across this formidable barrier to the summit. Now in his 76th year Jean-Jaques was still fit and more than keen to be a part of this historic expedition.

The plan was to follow the same route as had been attempted in 1952 – up the icefall, into the Western Cwm and then up and over the Geneva Spur to the South Col and the summit. The route was now well known, the team’s equipment and clothing state-of-the-art and their level of experience and fitness second to none. Yet the final decision would belong to the mountain. Would Chomolungma deny this Tenzing-Lambert duo as she had on those two occasions in ’52 ? Both Tashi and Yves believed not. So much had changed in Everest mountaineering. In 1952 the top sections of the mountain were virtually unknown – certainly no-one had been beyond the icefall before and knowledge of high altitude acclimatisation and oxygen apparatus was in its infancy. That Tenzing and Lambert came so close to attaining the summit in spring 1952 is testimony to their extraordinary strength and endurance – for they did so with archaic oxygen equipment, no real idea of what to expect at these altitudes and clothing and equipment which was cumbersome and inadequate for such extreme conditions in comparison with today’s high tech gear.

This new world of Everest mountaineering is vastly different from even a half century ago for we have access to satellite weather forecasting which can prepare climbers for that all-important “window” off clear, calm weather for which all on Everest wait throughout May each year. And the clothing of the 21st century is able to protect climbers from the most extreme cold and wind and the oxygen apparatus is now highly refined and infinitely lighter than those lead-like tanks of the last century. But perhaps the greatest advantage modern Everest mountaineers posses is experience of the peak itself. When the Swiss team moved into the Western Cwm in spring 1952 and made their way up the Lhotse Face and onto the Col, they had no real idea of what to expect. Everest’s moods are fickle at the best of times and one must judge them carefully and quickly for she can turn from a benign protectress into a raging demoness in the span of an hour and to survive you must learn to predict and compensate for this mercurial temperament. Such a skill comes only from experience and knowledge certainly – but still now, as in 1952, success rests largely on luck and as the Sherpas believe, on whether the mountain will allow you to climb.

Chomolungma must have cast her icy mind back to that day in autumn ’52 when Tenzing and Lambert, almost frozen solid by the intense cold and wind, were forced back from their second and final attempt together. Perhaps she felt they had paid their dues for in 2002 she would grant Tenzing and Lambert the success so long denied them – but not without a fight. High winds in April destroyed all the tents so laboriously carried up to Camp 111 and their first plans for a summit bid from the Col were thwarted by high wind, snow and monsoon clouds rolling in from the south. However the evening of May 15th cleared and although the snow lay deep on the south-east ridge the skies were clear and the temperatures surprisingly mild - a blessing but also a clear sign that the monsoon was imminent and time was extremely limited.

Late in the evening of May 15th the team set out – Jean Troillet climbing without oxygen.  Appa Sherpa’s vast Everest experience proved invaluable for he knew every nook and cranny, every rock and ice ledge and moved with a strength and ease which astounded even Tashi himself whose endurance and energy on mountains seems limitless; “I have never seen anyone sprint up the final summit ridge” recalled Tashi incredulously. ”Appa is amazing on that mountain “. The team moved smoothly and made good time, although Jean Troillet had to withdraw before the summit as he was not acclimatising as well as he had hoped. Appa fixed ropes on the upper ridges and the team climbed steadily on until finally, at 9.15 am Nepal time, they stood on top of the world. Tashi and Yves exchanged a jubilant hug before posing for a photograph which would mean so much to both families – Tenzing and Lambert on the summit of Everest together. Yves wore the red scarf which his father had given Tenzing in 1952 after their final defeat and which Tenzing had then worn to the summit in May 1953.

The summit is, of course, only half the climb and families and friends in Switzerland, Australia, India and Nepal waited anxiously for news that they were all safely down. Then the celebrations began. I (Judy) immediately called Mrs Annette Lambert, Raymond’s widow, in Geneva and her joy and relief were obvious. She, more than anyone, had felt Raymond’s bitter disappointment after his two 1952 attempts and she knew how he had secretly carried the sadness of a dream unrealised all his life. For her son to fulfil that dream was more than she could have hoped for. And in Darjeeling, Pem Pem Tshering – Tashi’s mother and eldest daughter of Tenzing Norgay – also knew full well the joy her late father would have felt seeing his grandson and Raymond’s son climb Everest together.

Chomolungma must indeed have been in a benevolent mood this season for she allowed Appa to make his 12th summit as well, breaking the world record yet again. And soon after the Swiss success she opened her vast icy arms to another son of Everest – Peter Hillary – who went on to make his second successful summit with an American team for a National Geographic documentary.

What is there left now to do on Everest for the Tenzings, Lamberts and Hillarys ? On the summit probably very little, although Tashi often lets slip a deep-held desire to climb via the North Col route on the Tibet side. Maybe next year ! The path ahead now lies beneath Everest – in the valleys and villages of Solu Khumbu where for the past 30 years Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust has worked tirelessly to improve education standards and future opportunities for the Sherpa people. Tashi Tenzing is also now focused on small projects within the Khumbu assisting with monastery restoration and support for Himalayan Trust schools. As ever the Swiss climbing community and its supporters are with him and now these sons and grandsons of Everest combine to repay Everest and the Sherpas for all that has been given to them in their personal quests and dreams fulfilled.